INTREPIDO ITALIANO : (Part 5) SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

The island of San Giorgio Maggiore is one vaporetto stop away from the Venetian mainland. One can even say it's literally within swimming-across-the-Grand-Canal distance, as  one can readily see its landmark church, made of white marble (aptly named Church of San Giorgio Maggiore).

Once you step off the vaporetto and onto the island, turn around and you will be rewarded by an unobstructed view of the highlights of the mainland:

  

Unobstructed view of the Venetian mainland: Bell tower, Basilica San Marco and Doge Palace.

Here's how the grand, imposing church looks up close:

Church of San Giorgio Maggiore

Another highlight is the San Giorgio Monastery, which also presently serves as the headquarters of the Cini Foundation.  No one, save for a few monks, lives inside the monastery; and it is only open for guided tours on weekends, with tours in English alternating with tours in Italian. Cost is EURO 10.00.

I visited San Giorgio Maggiore on a Sunday afternoon, and was struck by how quiet it was. Hardly anyone around. Eventually, only 3 of us signed up to take the guided tour (2 Italian ladies and moi). Rather than split us up, our friendly guide decided to do her dialogue and spiels in both languages. [She was huffing and puffing by the end of the tour, haha!]
   
According to our guide, the Cini Foundation (Fondazione Giorgio Cini) was established by Count Vittorio Cini in memory of his son, Giorgio, who died in an airplane accident near Cannes in 1949. It aimed to restore the island (which was destroyed by military occupation), and make it a center for Venetian culture and history.  

Amongst other things, the former monastery is a venue for cultural and art events. It has two libraries, namely: The Longhena Library, completed way back in 1671; and the modern library (“Nuova Manica Lunga"), which both focus on Italian (and Venetian) history and culture. 

Check out the photo of the modern library below. We were totally blown away by its simple, yet elegant design; and functionality (yes, it has Internet connection!). 

Nuova Manica Lunga

The foundation also owns a complete archive of all known works of the great Italian composer Vivaldi (amongst other artists), and offers scholarships for those interested in specializing in Italian culture.

The latest addition to this place is the Borges Labyrinth, a joint effort by the the Fundación Internacional Jorge Luis Borges and the Cini Foundation. It was intended as a tribute to the celebrated Argentinian writer Jorge Luis Borges, and opened on June 15, 2011 (right on his 25th death anniversary).

Look closely and you will see the word "Borges" spelled out. It also reproduced all of Borges' favorite symbols: a stick, a hourglass, a tiger, and a question mark.

San Giorgio Maggiore is defnitely worth visiting on a weekend! Check out their website here for more information on this lovely island.

INTREPIDO ITALIANO : (Part 4) BELLA BURANO

Burano (not to be confused with the more famous Murano, where the glass comes from) is one of the outlying islands in the Venetian Lagoon; and is known for its lace (a dying art, as only old women still weave it). 

It is also known for its brightly colored houses. Legend has it that it makes it easier for fishermen to identify their own houses in the dark. Not really likely, but let's not quibble :D
 

The gelato in this store was pretty good, too!

 

 

 

Girl knocking on door.

 When you're in mainland Venice, tours of the three islands (Murano, Burano and the uninhabited Torcello) are offered as a half-day package.  NO need to take one of these, as it is quite easy to go on your own, by taking the vaporetto (water buses).

 

Taking a photo of people taking a photo.

  

Look! Even their laundry is colorful!

My favorite shot.

There is really not that much to do in Burano, if one is not intent on buying lace and tourist souvenirs. There is a (of course) small Lace Museum, which i didn't go into. There are a fair number of restaurants which looked interesting. Besides that, its charm is really in the laid-back atmosphere and over-all quaintness of the island.

As i was walking rather hurriedly back to the vaporetto stop, i chanced upon a photoshoot right on the streets of Burano. Five or six models all dressed up in alluring attire; and pretty soon, a small bunch of tourists were gawking (and happily taking photos).  

 

Yellow dress setting off her dark brown complexion very well.

 I was initially going to continue on walking, but then stopped and thought, 'what the heck, there's another vaporetto coming at a later time anyway', and joined in the fun. 

 

 

 

 

NO points for guessing whom i thought was the prettiest of 'em all! ;-D

INTREPIDO ITALIANO : (Part 3) MIGLIOR CAFFE A ROMA?

I had read about Sant' Eustachio Il Caffe at the CNNGO website, and it was heartily recommended as one of the best coffee places in Rome. Thus, since my brain refuses to work without a good caffeine fix, i made a mental note to try it whilst in town. As the saying goes, "When in Rome, do as the Romans do."

Customers crowding inside the cafe

Located right at Piazza Sant' Eustachio, which is sandwiched between the tourist landmarks Pantheon and Piazza Navona, Sant' Eustachio Il Caffe was happily (and serendipitously) located literally two corners away from my hotel! YES!!! ;-D  [with matching fist pump]

Started in 1938, they import Arabica beans from such far-flung places as Ethiopia, Guatemala, Galapagos Islands and the like; and the coffee beans are wood-roasted right in their premises.



One of the rare shops that do not take a day off, it is open till quite late (up to 1 AM in certain days of the week). And there is a steady stream of customers at most hours, a mixture of locals/regulars and curious tourists (like moi).

Photo of menu

The ordering process is quite simple: Just go to the cashier and inform him of your order and pay. He curtly nods and says "Prego", and gives you a stub, which you then present to the barista. He curtly nods at you. Then you wait.  He hands you your drink, and upon hearing you say thanks in your best Italian imitation accent, says "Prego." Yup, no put-on cheerfulness ala Starbucks here! (haha)



What adds to the  mystique of this coffee place is that they have a mini-wall or screen which obscures the coffee machines behind the bar. Thus, customers are not able to see how their espresso, etc. are being made. Supposedly this is to guard their "secret" process of making the coffee drinks.


My particular elixir. . .err, caffeine fix of choice was the Gran Caffe' Especial (EURO 2.60), as pictured below.  

By default, it is already sweetened before being served (which is contrary to common practice of other coffee shops), so be sure to specify if you want it "bitter" when you order. 

I don't know what alchemy goes on behind that screen, but this coffee is seriously pretty good. No, not just good; it was great!  Full-bodied. Bold, yet smooth. No bitter taste. Totally lived up to its billing as the "best espresso" in Rome. I could drink 4 cups of this every day!

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They have a few outdoor tables. Please be warned, though, that just like other food establishments, the prices for sitting on a table ("waiter service") and drinking while standing at the bar are different. In the case of Sant' Eustachio Il Caffe, they tack on a EURO 2.50 charge per product. 

So, dear reader, next time you're in Rome, do as the Romans (and non-Romans) do, and drop by here for your espresso fix!

Sant’Eustachio Il Caffé Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82 00186, Rome, Italy. http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it/en/