SECOND TIME'S THE CHARM IN SAIGON: (Part 2) Essential Info

Okay, so before heading off to explore Saigon, i've compiled a by-no-means comprehensive guide on essential info that might be useful for you, the tourist. In no particular order: 

1. How to get to the city from the airport? 

By NO means should you flag down any random taxi passing by, or talk to touts loitering around outside the arrival hall offering cheap rides. To be safe, avail of a taxi service at one of the airport counters. I paid total of VND180,000 (USD8.00) for my ride from airport to my hotel in District 1. 

2. Exchanging money 

It's alright to exchange your US Dollars to Vietnamese Dong (VND) at the airport. The rate is generally the same, although some money exchange counters offer 'No commission'. Presently, the exchange rate is something like VND22,600/USD1.00. 

 

Yes, when in Vietnam, you become an instant millionaire! (USD100.00 = VND,2,260,000). But as my finance wiz friend Mon T. says, "it's not how much money you have, but what you can buy with it that matters." It does take getting used to hearing prices being quoted, and mentally calculating how much one is actually spending. 

Some prices i've encountered: 

Taxi ride (one-way from District 1 to District 7): VND130,000.00
Lunch at cafe: VND180,000.00
Desserts at L'Usine (one of Saigon's swankiest cafes): VND150,000.00
Juice at typical cafe: VND50,000.00
Flat white at typical cafe: VND65,000.00

More important, do take note of the VND bills, as they all have the same look, but with different colors and sizes depending on denomination. Some unscrupulous shopkeepers have been known to give an incorrect bunch of bills as change, in the hope that the tourist does not count their change on the spot. 

3. Where to stay? 

For tourists on a short holiday, best to stick to the District 1 area, as this is where most of the sights are. 

If you want to be at the heart of Saigon's commercial area, and like colonial architecture, best to stay at the expensive, historic hotels along Dong Khoi St., such as The Continental, The Grand, The Majestic (overlooks Saigon River), The Rex and The Caravelle. 
 

For a more down-to-earth and cheaper and convenient experience, i'd recommend staying at the area surrounding Ben Thanh market (generally referred to as "Ben Nghe"). Lots of good eats and shops around; and walking distance to the main sights, too. I stayed at the Silverland Yen Hotel for this trip, which i heartily recommend. The room was nice (way nicer than i expected), the staff very friendly, and the rates reasonable. Dig their facade below :D


 

Check their website at www.silverlandhotels.com for the full list of hotels under their group. 
 
4. Getting around 

Grab and Uber are active in Saigon, especially their motorbike service. After all, there are lots more motorbikes in this city (one estimate placed it at 4 million) than cars (1 million). 
 

  
 As for taxis, the  recommended companies are Mai Linh (all green in color) and Vinasun (white color with red and green horizontal stripes, plus their logo). The drivers of both companies typically wear a uniform with a tie,  and should have an ID card on the dashboard.  Apparently, there are fake taxis roaming the streets, with similar-sounding names such as Vinasum.

 

 

 5. Crossing the street

Obviously a full battalion of motorbikes heading in one's direction is not a very reassuring sight. But the key thing to do is to walk slowly, resolutely in small steps FORWARD. DO NOT DO THE CHA CHA (i.e. 2 steps forward, then 1 step backwards, etc.)

Believe me, as long as you do what i said above, these motorbikes will go around you and you won't get hit. 

The thing to watch out for are motorbikes who (illegally) run on the sidewalks, like below: 

6. Cheap eats

Walking distance from my hotel was the Ben Thanh Street Food Market, which provides a wide array of fairly cheap food in a covered food court style setting. On certain nights, a live band plays covers of popular hit songs. 

 

This mural is the bomb!!!! :D :D 

When people talk of Vietnamese food, the first dish that comes to mind is pho, essentially noodle soup typically made from beef stock and spices, with thinly sliced beef or chicken added.

A word or two about this. As the guide Dao told me, the correct way to pronounce is not "phooow", but more like "faaaahh [soft h]". Also, do yourself a favor and avoid eating at big chains such as Pho 24, Pho 2000 and Pho Hung. Instead, patronize the local places for a more tasty, authentic experience. 

7. Safety 

The main tourist areas in District 1 (Dong Khoi St., Ben Thanh, Nguyen Hue St., Le Loi St., etc.) are generally safe. But of course, keep your wits about you and leave the fine jewelry at home. 

And as much as possible, do not walk around holding your mobile phone in your hand. Especially the area around Ben Thanh market, as the bedlamity is strong in this one.

Lastly, do not entertain touts who offer 'cheap' motorcycle rides to wherever is your destination. These may end in tears.

GUS GUIDE: FIRST-TIMER'S GUIDE TO TOKYO

 (This is the last post of my HAJIMEMASHITE, NIHON series; and i thought it would be nice to write down assorted thoughts/musings/insights which would hopefully be helpful for first-timers to Tokyo. Personally, i'm raring to go back! ;-D)

1. Getting Around

Whilst planning the trip, this was actually my greatest apprehension - the fear of getting lost amidst the hustle and bustle of Tokyo, and having difficulty in getting directions due to the language barrier. 


The Tokyo public transport system is certainly one of the most extensive in the world; and is even more certainly confusing at first glance. For example, check out this official subway map from WhereinTokyo site:

Looks pretty daunting, eh? In fact, i'm willing to bet only locals and the cartographer who did it can actually understand it! :D

But fret nor fear not, dear tourist. The Grumpy Urban Slacker is here! #kapalmuks

The key is to forget (yes, forget) about this map, and instead remember this one - the Japan Railways (JR) Yamanote line (i.e. the "green" line), an above-ground train system which loops around the major tourist sites in Tokyo.

 

Infinitely simpler, huh? A good starting point would be to stay in a hotel near a major Yamanote line station (such as Shibuya, Shinagawa, Ikebukuro and Tokyo), and figure out which station(s) is/are nearest the particular tourist site(s) you want to visit. In most cases, you will just ride along the green loop (a major exception being a trip to Tsukiji Market, which would involve changing to a subway line).

Here's a link to a summary of tourist sites near each Yamanote station: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2370.html

2. English, English

We found English comprehension to be surprisingly good in the major train stations, convenience stores, retail shopping areas and restaurants, etc., but it can be patchy in suburban Tokyo.

Learning a few key sentences of Nihongo would definitely help endear you to the locals. I particularly recommend the 'Teach Yourself' audio series of Elizabeth Smith.

3. Local customs

One thing i noticed was that the locals do not carry around food & drink (such as soda, Starbucks coffee, donuts, etc.) while walking around, so i would not recommend doing so. Besides, it can be difficult to find a public trash can to throw your leftovers and/or packaging to.  Believe me, even the busiest subway stations such as Shibuya hardly have garbage bins, not even inside their restrooms.

Likewise, observe decorum while riding the subway and/or trains. There is almost total silence in transit, as locals either look half-asleep with glazed expressions (especially office workers in suits and ties); or busy playing games on their phones/tablets; or reading books. No boisterous chatter here.

4. Food

When in Japan, eat Japanese food, period. We had this eat-all-you-can Yakiniku (grilled meat) in Shinjuku during our last night. Expensive, but you get your money's worth. Drank this sake (rice wine), which was pretty smooth. 

Some other good meals: Small no-English tempura (fried shrimp) joint below the train tracks of Yurakucho station, check. 

Fastfood-y rice bowl and gyoza (dumpling) outlets, check. A no-English ramen (noodle) place off Omotesando Hills in Harajuku, check!

I remember this bowl of ramen, plus one order of pork gyoza, came to less than 800 Yen. Perfect lunch for a cold, overcast, slightly rainy day.

This sushi (raw fish on rice) restaurant named KIZUNA we stumbled on in Kabuki-cho, Tokyo's red light district. Check!!

Dig this sashimi platter, bursting with freshness! My HDL cholesterol levels are zooming already!

Tsukiji Market sushi breakfast, a giant check!

My conclusion: A bad meal is hard to find in Tokyo. In fact, forget about researching the Michelin star restaurants, or the lists of "best" sushi/ramen/katsu/etc. joints, or celebrity chef places. 

Plus, prices aren't as high as one would be led to believe (somehow, people have this preconception that Tokyo is hugely expensive). It is not cheap, definitely; but you can definitely find something good for 1000 Yen or below.

Most department stores have basements which serve as some sort of food court, with different stalls offering freshly cooked viands for takeout. In particular, the Seibu branch in Ikebukuro was full of tempting food and desserts! Definitely great value for money.

5.  Accommodations

Hotels, hostels and inns of all shapes and for all budgets can be found; but location is key. We stayed at the Shibuya area, which i heartily recommend. I was glad we didn't stay in Shinjuku, as i found the area to be confusing and too loud for my taste. 

If you want to try something uniquely Japanese (and cheap), stay in a capsule hotel. Check out fellow blogger Hello Newman's vivid account of his overnight stay in one:

http://www.hello1newman.blogspot.com/2010/06/capsules-arent-just-for-swallowing.html

So book your ticket, plan your itinerary, and go! All together now, Ohayo Gozaimasu Tokyo! 

GUS GUIDE: SECOND-TIMER'S GUIDE TO BANGKOK (Part 3: Bangkok Tree House)

Every time i plan a trip to the City of Angels, i pledge to travel outside the city and check out the beaches and/or countryside. But these plans always go for naught. For this trip, it was pretty much the same story - there just wasn't enough time to squeeze in a short out-of-Bangkok break.

Then Jellybean came up with the idea of visiting the Bangkok Tree House. Technically, it was still part of the city, but located in the periphery. One had to take a boat ride crossing the Chao Phraya river to get to it; and it was said that most locals were actually unaware of the place.

My interest was piqued. It seemed a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. Hence, plans were made to spend Sunday afternoon checking out the Tree House.

What exactly is the Bangkok Tree House (hereby shortened to "BTH")? 

A cursory check of the website  showed it was some sort of high-end tourist lodge with serious ecological cred -- we're talking organic food in their cafe, chlorine-free pool, solar- and wind-powered lights, etc. Overnight stays are possible in their "cozy nests". BTH cheerily admits to "not being for everyone", and goes further by saying "you will love the Bangkok Treehouse if you love trees, plants, exotic lizards, birds, fireflies, cicadas, butterflies and mother nature."

Hmmm, i love trees. .  . i definitely don't love lizards, exotic or otherwise. Mother nature? Yeah. But i love airconditioning too, hehe.

Getting There

Jellybean downloaded the step-by-step instructions, and we duly scanned it:

a) Bangkok Sky Train (BTS) to Bang Na Station, Exit 2       --- okay, check!
b) Taxi to Bang Na pier (around 1.5 KM / approx. BHT 55.00)

Unfortunately, this is where things went a bit potty. Our taxi driver did not quite understand Jellybean's Thai. She was saying the word "Tha Num" (meaning "pier"), but he misheard it as "Tha Non" (meaning "road"). So he just nodded and went on the expressway, and it wasn't until the taxi fare reached BHT 80.00 that we figured out we were on the wrong track!

Fortunately, we were able to call BTH; and they were able to set our poor cabbie straight. 

c) Finally, Bang Na pier. Here there were two ways to cross the river - via fast craft ("rocket boats") or ferry (cheap at BHT 4.00/person but slower).

Here (above) is a photo of the "rocket boat", with two locals quizzically eyeing us. They were probably wondering where these two foreigners were going. Jellybean inquired as to the rate, and we somewhat grudgingly agreed to the BHT 30.00/person rate. 

It turned out to be a very quick ride, barely 5 minutes. Our boatman signalled that our stop was already here, and motioned for us to get down his boat. We looked around, puzzled. 

No signage whatsoever that this was the BTH. All we saw was a series of rickety-looking wooden floorboards amidst murky waters. Not quite inspiring.

"This is it?!?" i ask Jellybean plaintively. So it seemed. We made like McGyver and stepped on the creaky wooden boards as fast and as lightly as we could, and i tried not to imagine what would happen if we tipped over to the brackish water. Surely there wasn't a crocodile or mutant sea monster awaiting to make us. . .into lunch?

We made it without mishap, and came upon the BTH's restaurant area (see pic below). Turned out our boat man (that sick sonofabitch) had dropped us off at the back entrance; and Jellybean figured out he had overcharged us! Our fare should probably have been around half only, i.e. BHT15.00/person!

Looking Around

So we decided to take a look around, and see what exactly was this place all about. Funnily enough, the staff paid us no mind, so we were free to roam around as we wished.

Here's one of the cozy nests. I really liked the simple, almost minimalist design of the walls, made from bamboo. This one is dubbed as the "Bee Hive".

Whoa, look at the lounge area on the roof top! Pretty cool. 

 

Here's a closer view of the roof top lounge of the biggest nest, "Family Nest". Looks pretty inviting, huh? Especially on a hot, muggy summer's day. One could sunbathe while drinking a bottle (make that bottles) of the famous local Singha beer.

 Nearby is the cozy nest known as "Tree Top Nest", with much more space. 

Ah, there are actual guests, look! :D 

I must mention, though, that a major drawback of these nests is that the toilets and bedrooms are on separate floors, and the stairs seem rather steep and might be difficult to navigate at night. Definitely not for people with vertigo.

Here's the one called "View with a Room"; and yes, this is the bedroom - you sleep under the stars.

 

The BTH website waxes poetically, saying "there is a magic to merging your soul with the heavenly bodies that words can only begin to describe." Really? I'm thinking of the mosquitoes and what happens if it rains.

There are touches of whimsy, which are actually endearing. Take this one, in one of the bedrooms:

 

 

BTH shows off its green cred in various ways. Here's some recycled wood accents on the wall of the Family Nest:

 

And plants grown on containers made of recycled soda bottles abound:

 

And i guess this is the grand daddy of 'em all, their solar panel which powers most of the lights and water heater.

Some of the signs around the property proved to be enlightening and/or amusing. Amongst them:

This mirror quote (below) brought chuckles to me and Jellybean. Could this be the reason why i'm grumpy everyday, instead of happy? (gasp) ;-D

 

Ah, here's me hiding behind the mirror. lest my innermost thoughts get revealed. Hehe.

And here's my lovely friend hiding behind this profound saying. I'm sure she thinks all men are wrong all the time! Hahahahahaha!

"Earth, without Art, is just eh". I'd have to agree!

 

You might wonder what else there is to do in the area of the Bangkok Tree House. Apparently, plenty of other things. One can rent a bike and explore the lush vegetation, or visit the nearby Bang Nam Peung Floating Market, or have a picnic at Si Nakhon Kheaun Khan Botanical Park.  They have a hand-drawn wall-sized map (below) showing where these places are:

 

Snack Time

For people like us who preferred more sedate pursuits, the mid afternoon called for a snack. So we retreated to BTH's in-house cafe.

Check out the "bamboo chandeliers" (bamboo poles affixed to the ceiling), which made for such a visually-arresting display that i was so enamored with it (and briefly thought of installing such in my bedroom). Both of us agreed it added a nice, native touch to the cafe.

Here's another look near their bar counter area. 

 

While Jellybean was away, whispering on her mobile to confirm our dinner reservations (see previous post on the 'Little Beast' resto), i ordered from the menu the Mango Tomato Tango, described as "mango, shrimp, tomatoes in fat-free mayonnaise, lime and mint sauce."

It turned out to be an attractive dish, and the flavors worked really well together. Perfect as a light snack. 

The Grandma's recipe iced tea was a visual feast for the eyes, but the taste was pretty average. Still refreshing on this humid afternoon, though.

And it turned out the bamboo poles were functional as well!

Back to Civilization

Eventually, it was time to leave and make our way back to central Bangkok. 

Despite getting directions from the friendly (and pretty) female staffer on how to get to the ferry dock, we managed to lose our way a little bit and got into a bizarre worthy-of-Bill-Gates discussion on what exactly was an "intersection".

Fortunately, Jellybean's training with the Navy Seals/Medicins sans Frontiers/UNICEF kicked in, and she figured out that we had to go towards the direction of the water. Which saved the day, as it was past 6 PM; and the pathway we were on was narrow, and a slip and fall into the murky water was gonna make us late for dinner. 

Eventually we saw the dock and sprinted a little bit in order not to be left behind (and wait 20 minutes for the next ferry). The ferry was rather full, with a whole bunch of motorcycle-riding passengers.

Again, we were conscious of some stares from fellow passengers. I'm pretty sure they have never heard of the Bangkok Tree House!

Final Thoughts

After saying goodbye (or is it good riddance?) to the BTH,  i contemplated a little bit about this place. It surely had good intentions regarding being eco-friendly, and there was probably a sizeable enough tourist market for its offerings. 

This seemed the type of off-the-beaten-path destination that can be a staple of architectural/design magazines, and even glossy high-end travel magazines (possible "retreat in utter calm from the bustle of Bangkok" tagline comes to mind). But for me, once you're there, it can be quite underwhelming. 

So, would i stay overnight here? Hmmm, i'd have to say NO.

BANGKOK TREE HOUSE 60 Moo 1, Petch Cha Hueng Road, Bang Namphueng, Phra Padaeng, Samut Prakarn, Greater Bangkok 10130
Phone : +66 82 995-1150 (Hotel & Restaurant Bookings) +66 82 996-6520 (Media Enquieries)
E-mail :

Facebook  :    www.facebook.com/bangkoktreehouse

GUS GUIDE: SECOND-TIMER'S GUIDE TO BANGKOK (Part 2: The Little Beast)

The City of Angels presents innumerable choices for the tourist. For second-timers, check out the Thonglor and Ekamai parts of Sukhumvit Road, where the newest and hippiest shops, restos and bars converge, tucked away in small discreet sois.

I had given Jellybean carte blanche in choosing where to have dinner (my only request was no more Thai food, as we already ate at the famous Bo.Lan resto), and she decided to keep her chosen resto a surprise. Thus, she could be heard mumbling on her mobile, confirming our dinner reservation. 

As expected, we got a bit lost finding the place; and our taxi driver motioned for us to walk down the soi, rather than him dropping us off right at the entrance. 

We were supposed to look for a French bulldog statue (as this was the landmark of the resto). Suffice to say, we didn't see it!

Fortunately, after a short walk, we found the signage of Little Beast resto, our destination for the evening.

 

According to Jellybean, Little Beast seeks to evoke a New York vibe with its food (emphasis on small plates) and decor. The interiors were suitably dark, with comfortable seats; and there was a well-lit bar area as well. The place was rather small, surprisingly enough.

Onwards to the food!

First up was the Warm Creamy Crab Dip with House-Made Crackers and Baby Romaines (250 Baht. Seriously good. We were both blown away! Creamy and tangy dip, yet not cloying. I could have eaten a whole mayonnaise jar's worth of this dip.

Next was the Snap Peas & Chicken Skin salad (200 Baht). I must admit to have had initial reservations about this dish (as greens aren't really my thing). But the peas proved to be sweet-ish and crunchy, and the chicken skin was superb. 

Here's a closer look at the chicken skin. It looks more like a deep-fried cracker. My only wish was that there should have been more pieces of it in the dish!

My personal choice for our 'main' course, the 15-Hour Lamb Shoulder (350 Baht). It proved to be extremely tasty, and tender and juicy; and i could have eaten this whole portion below.

Jellybean chose the Black Truffle & Pork Cheek Penne  (350 Baht). Considered as a 'small plate', the portion was quite generous; and we both liked it very much. Pasta was perfectly cooked, pork cheek was tender, and the cream sauce was not overwhelming.

For desserts, we chose the Homemade Ice Cream Sandwiches (150 Baht), which came in 3 flavors: Peanut Butter cookies + vanilla ice cream, Chocolate Chip cookies + milk ice cream, and Snickerdoodle cookies + salted caramel ice cream.

Nice presentation. I'm a huge fan of ice cream (well, desserts in general), but these were just okay. Nothing really great, so a bit of a letdown. If i recall correctly, Jellybean and i agreed the Snickerdoodle with salted caramel was the best one.

Ah, we finally found their mascot, the French bulldog. He's standing guard on a small bench in front of the resto entrance.

Overall, a very good dining experience. I'd love to be back here during the next trip to this part of the world. Props to Jellybean for making such a great resto choice (and for treating me as well, hehehe :D)!

44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13; +66 (0)2 185 2670
Facebook.com/littlebeastbar

For more info on nightspots in the area, check out http://www.thonglor-ekamai.com.