Tuesday, May 20, 2014


The dryly-named "Tokyo Central Wholesale Market", better known as Tsukiji, is said to be the world's largest and busiest fish market. Located in Central Tokyo, it is readily accessible by the metro. 

The first thing that any visitor should be aware of is that Tsukiji market is NOT intended for sight-seeing. It is an actual working market; so watch out where you are going, get out of the way of moving vehicles, and (most important of all) DO NOT TOUCH THE FISH!!!

Check out this sign below, which is actually the first of a series of murals stating (more like sermonizing :D) on the proper decorum for visitors when inside the market.

The main attraction for tourists is the tuna auction, where one can see buyers bidding for the best tuna. To view this, one has to line up early in the morning, as there are only a limited number of tickets available. Obviously, we were not the sort of folks who wake up at 2 AM to do such tomfoolery (that would be the area of interest of my cousin, Grumpy Urban Fish Fanatic or "GUFF", but he's out right now fishing for trout in Alaska), so i'll leave you this first-hand account of Sanju of the much-admired food blog Table for Three, Please. 

Instead, we decided to go later in the morning and have a sushi breakfast in one of the restaurants along the periphery of the market.

Many of the restos were clustered in one alley. Our chosen resto was SUSHI BUN, which serves the traditional style of sushi (i suppose they all do, right? )

There are other more well-known restaurants, such as SUSHI DAI (which my friend Megsky swears to high heavens is totally fantastic) and DAIWA SUSHI. However, the lines outside these establishments are also much longer.

After all, we reasoned that all the restos get their supply of fresh fish and seafood from the inner market, so one can hardly go wrong eating at any of the establishments, right? 

As you can see from the photo above, SUSHI BUN offers three standard sets: 

B set costing 2,800 Yen ("regular quality" 8 different pieces of sushi + 3 pieces of roll with today's soup); 
C set costing 3,850 Yen ("extra special quality" 10 different pieces of sushi + 3 pieces of roll and house-made omelet with today's soup); 
Sashimi set costing 3,450 Yen (platter of assorted raw fish).

We were led in by the lady at the door, and from this point onwards, no photos were allowed. Suffice to say, the restaurant was quite small (seating probably 15 persons max). The sushi chefs worked deftly, without much fanfare; and before you could say 'Konnichiwa', your order was being presented already to you.

The miso soup, with lots of tiny clams, proved to be quite flavorful. We had ordered one each of the three sets, and all came beautifully and artfully presented -- almost a bit too pretty to eat, in fact! 

Upon first bite, freshness was indeed the order of the day. Firm texture, sweetish taste. Yum! [smacking lips]

Tsukiji market is also a good place for cooks and food lovers to shop for assorted stuff, from ceramic tableware to spices to utensils, and the like. I bought some stuff from a shop specializing in green tea, while my friends R.T. and W.T. were taken by bamboo whisks.

Here's some spicy curry powder in huge tin cans that made me think of paint thinner (he he :D):

And i suppose this is the mother of all hot sauces. "After Death" Sauce, anyone? ;-D

Verdict: Whilst pricey, the sushi breakfast is well worth the experience. And i'd gladly go back during our next future trip to Tokyo.


Koryn said...

Argh, I am missing Japan because of all your posts!

Adventure Accountant said...

I wasn't able to visit this market. Any idea why photos weren't allowed in the restaurant?

"Please read these cartoons and learn how to look around" ==> Hahaha! May guide how to look around for tourists.

grumpyurbanslacker said...

Hey Koryn,

Venice ka this year, ha? ;D

Hey Lorraine,

Acck, why oh why? As for the restos, i think they're just traditional (conservative) and don't like the idea of people taking photos of the food before eating; or worse, directing the sushi chef to hold a pose as he serves the plate, hahahaha!!

thanks to you both for dropping by!